NEXT STEPS FOR BRANDS

While the term “brand chemical management” may not be the most exciting-sounding thing in the world, it’s critically important for consumer, worker and environmental protection.  

Limited transparency and traceability within supply chains is a core weakness within the fashion industry, especially in places that most chemicals are used - the wet processor, dyer, printer, laundry and tannery -  where chemicals often end up in our wardrobe and where most of the worker exposure and environmental pollution occurs. 

So, how can fashion brands effect real and necessary change? For starters, brands can be transparent about who their suppliers are. It’s impossible to enforce worker and community safety, while also preventing pollution without a clear idea of who is doing your printing, dyeing or tanning. 

Brands can also address their use of highly toxic chemicals by accepting the precautionary approach. In other words, brands preventively restrict chemicals where there is real concern, even if there is scientific uncertainty. For brands striving for circularity, designing out harmful substances is absolutely essential.

At the most basic level, brands should adopt a Restricted Substance List (RSL) to ensure consumer safety along with a “policing” program. When taken seriously, brands should develop ZDHC’s Manufacturing Restricted Substance List (MRSL) to ensure that hazardous chemicals stay out of factories and as a result, limit worker, water, community and consumer exposure. 

Brands can also take the approach of testing materials and components before assembly and testing for the potential of the highest risk chemicals while also performing due diligence testing with products already on the market. Done in combination with OEKO-TEX, bluesign or GOTS, can be an effective starting place. 

Fashion Fwd advocates for brands to act immediately by committing to align with ZDHC’s Roadmap. This initiative calls for phasing out the use of 11 priority hazardous chemicals and developing a robust chemical management policy. Additionally, chemical restrictions should be based on the highest legal standard in any of the countries where retailers conduct business. 

 Brands need to police their standards rather than just publish them. They also need to pay a fair price, as tough negotiations put suppliers in impossible situations of running at a loss while heightening risk. They should support their suppliers — who often have limited resources — by providing clear policies, training as well as provide on-site audits.